BloodShed wrote:That information you mentioned is exactly what I'm looking for; a simple test with a multimeter!
Your timekeeper module should look like this one:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_60EdE-4xjwk/S ... 0-h/17.png
To test the battery connect the multimeter leads (set to dc volts) as the battery shown here:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_60EdE-4xjwk/S ... 0-h/18.png
BloodShed wrote:Also, what exactly does the battery maintain? All save memory? Does it also maintain the system clock? If I create a save (for now I can only create saved VCD settings), then pull the power for the night... should a dead Timekeeper mean that the save or time/date will be erased?
Everything you need to know about the nvram:
http://www.icdia.co.uk/articles/nvram.html
BloodShed wrote:Lios wrote:You could try cleaning the laser and the discs themselves (These are legit pressed copies in good condition I take it?).
I tested 3 games; one pressed and two CD-R copies. The discs look fine and I even tried reburning the copies. I'm using Verbatim media with ImgBurn set to 1X (although the slowest it can actually burn is 10X). That's why I ordered another game today to also test with.
Luckily, I've had to adjust some lasers before so I'm at least familiar with it. Is there a documented optimal resistance range? I agree about giving the laser too much or even too little juice. I've seen people fry the laser diode or even melt the lens coils.
Afraid not, it's all dependent on the player, laser, and aging factors. This is true of all lasers, I could tell you what range works great for my laser, but it will mean absolutely nothing for your laser. As lasers are used, they compensate for stuff like scratched/dirty discs, or hard to read cd-rs. Heat and other factors also affect this. Over time this puts them in a non optimal state of calibration. The only way to truly optimally calibrate a laser is with an oscilloscope which are very pricey for a decent one. Without one you are more or less blind turning in tiny increments, and testing to see how it affects the behavior of the laser. A multimeter will help you to set it back to the original setting should it not help.
Clockwise = more juice, counter-clockwise = less juice. Underjuicing it is not nearly as dangerous as over juicing it. While it can damage it over time (if it would even work in such a state), it's not going to instantly kill the laser as you would if you tweaked the voltage up too much. In my experience most lasers need just a tiny turn clockwise to alleviate the problem. Keep in mind this is only for the actual laser's voltage. Sometimes there will be pots on board that adjust different aspects, like focus, gain and whatnot. This is where the real meat and potatoes of calibration usually are. Barring all of that, if the laser is the problem, you might just need a new laser. Make sure to write down all the original resistances of any pots on board so you can set them back if this is the case.
BloodShed wrote:
Lios wrote:
You could try cleaning the laser and the discs themselves (These are legit pressed copies in good condition I take it?).
I tested 3 games; one pressed and two CD-R copies. The discs look fine and I even tried reburning the copies. I'm using Verbatim media with ImgBurn set to 1X (although the slowest it can actually burn is 10X). That's why I ordered another game today to also test with.
Believe it or not some of my friends found that burning at speeds lower than like 4x or 8x on most modern burners actually produces a poorer quality burn. There is a sound technical explanation for this, I just don't remember it.
I don't know if verbatim is one of the many companies that outsource the manufacture the production of their cd-rs to different manufacturing plants (so one batch of the exact same branded cd-rs != another batch of the same brand), but you should try a different media anyways. Why? Because even though x brand may work wonders on everything else you have used it for, it may just be that your cd-i doesn't like them. Lasers in general are picky with what dye, brand, types of cd-rs they will play flawlessly, mainly due to the way cd-rs work vs pressed cds. Calibration can alleviate some of this, but you are better off just finding a brand that works. You'd be surprised, sometimes cheap bulk cd-rs "win the outsourcing lottery" and you actually end up with a quality cd-r.
IIRC there is one brand of cd-r's that my friend swears by. They are always consistent, and never outsource, but they are pricey (well for cd-rs they are) The were diamond silvers or something?
http://www.meritline.com/ritek-ridata-5 ... ce=fgmedia
I don't think those are it, but they have a silver bottom like a legit cd. I'll see if I can't find the exact ones my friend uses.
Lastly, what burning software are you using? Are they bin/cue files you are burning? Do they boot or are they recognized as a game in the cd-i emulator? It may be that your legit copy is messed up somehow and the burns aren't working right for whatever reason (media, burn settings, valid cd-i image, etc).